Spring-flowering bulbs must be exposed to temperatures of 40 to 45 degrees for 12 to 16 weeks or they won’t bloom. And lucky for us, that’s roughly the temperature range of our soils during winter. Of course, that’s also why folks in the south must store their bulbs in the refrigerator for the same length of time before planting. It’s also how you can “force” bulbs to bloom in pots indoors (although paperwhite narcissus don’t need to be chilled).

Daffodils are definitely my favorite of all spring-flowering bulbs. They come in a dizzying array of sizes, colors, and bloom periods, and they’re one of the few bulbs gophers won’t eat. Best of all, they spread, but in a good way, as in slowly but surely. And they rebloom dependably for decades, often outliving the gardener who planted them.

And then there are tulips. There was a time when tulips weren’t my thing, largely because with the exception of the Darwin hybrids, they tend to behave as annuals. But I’ve changed my tune in recent years. After all, even if they don’t come back, they’re so spectacularly beautiful that having the opportunity to enjoy them for a few weeks is better than not enjoying them at all. Keep in mind that tulip bulbs are very susceptible to rot in wet soils, and daily watering with an automatic irrigation system can prove deadly.

I’m crazy about crocuses, which often flower in late winter, and are especially beautiful planted en masse beneath trees roughly three-inches apart in a random pattern, in either single or mixed colors. Although they’re small -- rarely growing six-inches tall -- their impact is anything but. And if they don’t flower on cloudy or rainy days, don’t panic. That’s just what they do.

In recent years I’ve grown fond of the alliums for the big, bold, beautiful statements they make, and the pollinators they attract, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. The really big ones produce softball-size flowers on strong, erect stems that are great for cutting. I assure you that if you plant these in your front beds, folks walking by will take notice.

Strikingly colorful flowers and intoxicating fragrance combine to make hyacinths one of the best of all bulbs. And their foliage is especially attractive as well. Hyacinths are perennial -- typically reblooming for three to four years -- but the blooms tend to be smaller in subsequent years, which is why a lot of folks treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every year.

There are also lots of so-called lesser or minor bulbs to consider as well, including Muscari (Grape Hyacinths), Fritillaries, Galanthus (Snowdrops), Leucojum (Summer Snowflake), Scilla (Siberian Squill), Puschkinia (Squill), and, my favorite, Camassia. If you’re planting bulbs anyway, you really should try a few of these not-so-well-known but beautiful bulbs.

As a general rule, you should plant bulbs roughly two or three times their height, which means really large daffodils might need to be planted eight-inches deep, whereas most tulips (and smaller daffs) can be planted roughly six-inches deep, and smaller bulbs three-inches deep. But keep in mind that if you have heavily mulched beds, you should include the depth of the mulch when planting. And don’t forget to plant bulbs “pointy-side” up. If there’s no point, plant them roots down.

Spring-flowering bulbs tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, but whatever the soil type it needs to drain well to prevent the bulbs from rotting. You can improve drainage by prepping beds before planting with any number of different bagged, composted soil amendments.

Nearly all bulbs need sun, but here’s the deal: when most bulbs are in bloom, deciduous trees have yet to produce leaves, so the area below them is generally sunny. And all bulbs planted in our area can handle a little afternoon sun.

Layering is a cool way to plant a variety of bulbs in the same space. Just dig an area to a depth of six inches and plant daffodils. Fill with two inches of soil and plant tulips. Then add another inch or so of soil and plant small bulbs such as crocus. And finally, top with an inch of mulch. 

Truth is, bulbs don’t need much fertilizer. Everything the plant needs to begin growth is stored in the bulb. However, once the foliage begins to emerge, you might want to use Espoma’s Bulb-tone to give the plants a nutrient boost. Bone meal, which for years has been applied to the soil at planting time, is primarily a source of phosphorus, and our soils already have plenty of that.

Spring-flowering bulbs should be watered well after planting, but beyond that they don’t require regular watering unless we have an especially dry winter, in which case they should be watered every two weeks. During their bloom phase, plan on watering once a week.