We’re not having a sale on trees across the board. But we are having a big sale on big trees --  those that retail for $399 and up -- at 30% off. We call them “ring” trees because they’re too large to fit in a traditional nursery container, and are instead set in a shallow hole in the ground, then the root ball is wrapped in a metal ring which is filled with a special planting mix for optimum root development.

Choose from your favorite oaks, maples, Chinese Pistache, and more, and be sure to ask about our delivery and planting services and one-year guarantee.

Like any plant, trees can have problems. But the majority of them can be avoided by proper planting and maintenance. Here are a few of the most common concerns and how best to deal with them.

Girdling tree roots grow in a circular or spiral pattern around the base of the tree, and they can be a serious problem. As the roots circle the trunk, they can slowly and ultimately cut off the flow of sap to the tree, which can result in the slow death of the tree.

Girdling can be caused by a number of things -- planting a container-grown tree whose roots are growing in a circular pattern, twisting the roots of a bare-root tree to fit in a small hole, failure to remove wire baskets or burlap at planting time, and piling mulch against the trunk of the tree. But the two biggest causes of girdling roots are planting in too small a hole and planting too deeply. 

That’s why it's best to dig a planting hole at least twice the diameter of the root ball, and leave up to a third of the root ball above the soil grade so the tree develops a flare at its base. And at planting time, if you spot any roots growing in circles, spread them out so that they’ll reach into the surrounding soil.

The pictures above show girdling roots of a sweet gum (left), and the perfect trunk flare of a mature oak.

Unsightly surface roots are just that. They can be caused by compacted soil and by failing to water deeply, which causes roots to hover near the surface in search of moisture rather than penetrating deeper into the soil. The solution is actually quite simple -- deal with them.

And the easiest way to deal with them is to add mulch -- but not too much mulch. A two- to four-inch layer is fine; any more than that and you run the risk of actually suffocating the tree. Adding a groundcover may work, but in the competition for moisture and nutrients the tree often wins.

Mounding mulch like a volcano around the base of a tree leads to girdling roots and prevents the development of a proper trunk flare. (It also looks ridiculous.) In addition, the bark at the base of the tree often remains moist for extended periods, which can lead to decay. So stick with an evenly spread, light layer of mulch as described above.

Small shoots known as suckers appear naturally at the base of some trees, and anyone who’s grown crape myrtles or cherries, for example, is all too familiar with them. The way to get rid of them is to tear or rub them off as they appear, which is best done shortly after they emerge. Tearing or rubbing, rather than cutting them with pruners, removes dormant basal buds and greatly reduces the chance of them reappearing.

Water sprouts are vigorous, upright shoots that develop along the trunk and branches of trees, often following heavy pruning. They tend to be rather unsightly and can divert energy from the rest of the tree, so it’s a good idea to prune them out, although you may have to repeat the practice every few years. Although it sounds strange, proper watering can reduce the occurrence of water sprouts, because the stress caused by drought can encourage their growth.

Staking newly planted trees, especially bare-root trees, is a common practice, but it usually isn’t necessarily unless the tree is planted in an unusually windy spot or sandy soil. Regardless, stakes should be removed after the first full year so that the tree can naturally sway in the wind, which will result in a stronger trunk.

Low growing limbs exist for a reason -- the shade they cast protects a tree’s roots, and they add stability to the tree. But I get the fact that they can get in the way when mowing or when they weep so low that grass or other plants can’t grow beneath them. However, it’s best to wait until a tree is three- to five-years-old before removing any lower limbs to maximize tree health. And in the case of Magnolias, I would urge you to leave the lower limbs intact to protect the tree’s fleshy roots and cover the thick, leathery leaves that fall.

I’m often asked if it’s okay to plant a new tree in a spot where an old tree has been removed and the stump ground into sawdust. The short answer is no, unless you’re willing to wait several years for the sawdust to decompose, during which time you’ll likely see lots of mushrooms pop up all over the area as they help to hasten the decomposition process. You can, however, plant a new tree within six to eight feet of the ground stump.

I write about perennials annually, which makes it a perennial, perennial post. And why shouldn’t I? I mean, perennials can do more to liven up a garden than any other plant group, all the while creating a welcoming environment for pollinators.