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I saw my first red spider mite the other day, which means thousands more are on the way. It also means aphids are likely lurking about, as well as a host of other pesky insect pests. Spider mites and aphids are known as soft-bodied insects, a group that also includes scales, thrips, leaf-hoppers, mealybugs, whiteflies, and caterpillars and are the focus of this post. All are potentially destructive, and their rapid reproductive rates make controlling them especially difficult. However, I’m not going to overreact, because the emergence of pests is as predictable as cilantro bolting in spring (which mine is doing right now). But I will remain vigilant.
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Your first defense against harmful insect pests and diseases is careful observation. That means inspecting your plants at least every other day. Look for damage in the form of chewed leaves or those with “shotgun” holes, both of which are signs of insect damage, as well as a sticky substance on leaves. You may or may not actually see the critter in question, but a quick look at the underside of leaves may reveal egg masses. Yellowing, browning, and curling of leaves or a powdery substance may suggest either insect or disease problems. Sometimes the two occur in tandem because insects act as vectors or carriers of various diseases.
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| A female aphid can give birth to several daughters every day, without mating. It is calculated that under optimal conditions a single aphid can produce 600 billion descendants in a single year! |
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Think Twice Before Spraying
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The worst thing you can do in response to seeing insect pest damage is to spray or dust every plant in sight. That may eradicate the pest, but it may also destroy any beneficial insects that are present. Instead, try to target the pest with a product specifically designed to control it. Here are some of the most effective.
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Horticultural Oil
This is an all-natural go-to treatment for controlling soft-bodied insects and it serves as a decent fungicide. It suffocates rather than poisons insect pests, but it must be sprayed directly on the culprit to be effective.
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Insecticidal Soap
Another great control for soft-bodied insects, insecticidal soap is highly effective when sprayed directly on pests. It’s been around for years, and no insect has ever developed resistance to it. However, it’s not very effective at controlling caterpillars, and it shouldn’t be used when temps are in the 90s.
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| A soil scientist on vacation in the Caribbean spotted a bacterium growing on the floor of an abandoned rum distillery. He went back home with a sample, cultured it, and identified it as what would become spinosad. Cheers! |
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Bt
Bacillus thuringiensis is a soil-dwelling bacterium found throughout the world. It targets and controls caterpillars and only caterpillars, and is safe to use around people and pets. So when caterpillars attack your cabbage or petunias or whatever, reach for Bt. It’s also a good preventive control for bagworms, which are on the prowl right about now.
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Neem
Neem is a botanical insecticide that’s made from the tropical Neem tree. Its active ingredient, azadirachtin, is a powerful organic molecule that is most often blended in oil. It controls a number of soft-bodied insect pests and fungal diseases, much like horticultural oil. But it also controls beetles.
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Spinosad
For broad-spectrum control of a number of tough to control insects, reach for Spinosad. It’s both a stomach and nerve poison, which makes it doubly effective. I use products containing spinosad more than any other pesticide. Another benefit: once it dries, it doesn’t endanger beneficial insects.
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Systemics Systemic pesticides are synthetic formulations that are typically applied as soil drenches. The active ingredients are taken up through the vascular systems of plants and can remain effective for months. Their risk to beneficial insects is minimal because most beneficials eat insects rather than plants, although the jury is still out regarding their impact on bees.
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To avoid harming bees in particular, it’s best to spray early in the morning or late in the evening when bees aren’t especially active. Avoid spraying on windy days to reduce the chance of “drift,” and don’t spray during the hottest part of the day.
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| The most popular insecticide used by farmers in the 1930s contained arsenic to which a bit of lead was added. Yikes! |
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Even something as natural as insecticidal soap shouldn’t be applied under certain conditions or to certain plants. So before applying any of the products described above, read the label carefully to avoid damage to plant tissue and reduce the risk of harming beneficial insects.
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Coming Next Week -- Plant Disease
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This week, insect pests. Next week, diseases, which are often more difficult to both diagnose and control. But once again the key is early identification and rapid response.
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Tip of the Week Home remedies for controlling insects and diseases found online may be tempting, but most of the claims made are bogus, while others may actually harm plants.
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