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Plants need special attention during the summer months, especially as temperatures go from warm to downright hot. We’re not there yet, but we all know it’s coming, whether sooner or later. So here are ways to help your lawn and garden get through the summer.
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| Meteorologically speaking, the first day of summer is June 1. But astronomically, it’s June 21 this year, at 3:24 a.m. CST. |
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Anything you planted in late winter or in spring (other than annuals) will take one to three years to become “established,” meaning the point at which the plant’s root system has grown sufficiently to support the top growth. During that time, it’s imperative that you water routinely, deep soaking each time you water, ideally as often as every week, to stimulate active root growth. That’s especially true of large trees and shrubs.
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Now is the time to fertilize warm-season turf grasses such as Bermuda and Zoysia. Doing so provides essential nutrients and promotes vigorous growth, which goes a long way toward keeping weeds in check. And once temperatures consistently begin to hover in the 90s, it’s a good idea to raise the height of your mower deck at least one notch, or to a height of 2” to 2.5”. That’ll help shade the soil and cool the roots below, as well as prevent weed seeds from germinating. Fescue, which is a cool-season grass, should not be fertilized this time of year, but rather in the fall, specifically September and again in November. But you should likewise raise the cutting height of your mower deck to 2.5 to 3”.
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| The “dog days of summer” can be traced back to the days of the Roman Empire. It refers to the dates from July 3 through August 11, which is 20 days prior to and 20 days after the star Sirius (in the constellation Canis Major or Great Dog) rises and falls in conjunction with the sun. |
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Annuals often need a boost of fertilizer this time of year as well, especially those that bloom continuously such as Petunias and their little cousins, Million Bells. As summer heat intensifies, they and other annuals may begin to look a tad tired, a sign that they need a dose of nutrients. By midsummer, a number of annuals — Petunias, Million Bells, Torenias, and Verbenas, for example — may start to look a bit straggly, a sure sign that they’re in need of a haircut. Just snip the elongated stems back a bit to reshape the plants. Repeat the process as needed through September.
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Perennials look fantastic right now, and thankfully most of them tend to take care of themselves, needing only routine deep watering, a layer of mulch, and very little if any fertilizer. Some perennials will rebloom if you cut back their faded flowers, including Lavender, Nepeta (Catmint) and Salvia, but you can simply deadhead others to improve their appearance. Those that are prone to fungal diseases — Coreopsis, Peonies, and Tall Phlox in particular — may need to be treated with a fungicide. Keep in mind, however, that many perennials produce seed for birds, so it’s best not to prune their blooms, particularly in late summer to early fall. Here are a few of the bird’s favorites.
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| Aster |
Coreopsis |
| Bee Balm |
Goldenrod |
| Black-Eyed Susan |
Liatris |
| Blanket Flower |
Sedums |
| Coneflower |
Switchgrass |
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| Scientists are warning that this year’s El Nino could be the worst on record, and lead to the hottest year on record. |
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Curing Garlic, Onions, and Potatoes
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As the growth of warm-season veggies kicks into high gear, three crops that were planted in late winter or early spring — garlic, onions, and potatoes — can be eaten right after harvest, but if you want them to last weeks to months in storage, they need to be properly cured. Click here to learn more:
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As for all the other veggies in the garden now, I’ll write about them on July 2, focusing on harvest tips, pest control, disease prevention, and best watering practices.
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We’ve been told for decades that the best time to prune trees and shrubs is during the dormant season. That’s true, but it’s also true that you can prune in summer so long as you don’t get too carried away. In other words, try to avoid removing large branches and instead stick with those that are only an inch or less in diameter. Prune to eliminate suckers and water sprouts, to open the interior of trees (especially fruit trees), or make “heading” cuts to shorten the length of stems and branches.
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It goes without saying that with summer heat comes more time spent watering, but I just said it anyway. I could probably write an entire book about watering lawns and gardens, but as a rule of thumb, here’s the gist of it: Water once a week, providing an inch of water to everything that grows, deep soak each time you water, focus on watering the base of plants, and water early in the day if possible. Water container plants and hanging baskets every day in summer.
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Coming Next Week — Paul’s Pollinator Picks
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We’re having a Pollinator Festival next Saturday and Sunday (June 27 and 28), so I’m going to feature a number of my favorite pollinator magnets that bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds find irresistible. Chances are you will too.
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Tip of the Week If you haven’t had your mower blade sharpened in the last year or two, get it done. Dull blades create ragged cuts which can lead to disease problems and make your mower work harder.
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