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I cook seven nights a week. I fall asleep at night thinking about the next day’s dinner. I’d rather be in the kitchen than just about anywhere else, unless of course my potatoes are ready to harvest. I focus on cuisines from all over the world, with a well stocked spice pantry that includes everything from Amchur to Za’atar. But when the bounty of summer veggies begins to arrive, I tend to keep things simple (almost like “no recipe recipes”) and let their natural flavors shine, because less is often more.
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There are as many ways to cook green beans as there are varieties of beans. My grandmother boiled them in water, to which she added sauteed bacon and onions, new potatoes, plus salt (too much salt!) and pepper. She usually added a hefty spoonful of bacon grease along the way. I can still taste them. But when it comes to green beans, I think simple is best, as in sauted in a little oil and butter and lightly seasoned. But I always take the extra step of blanching them first, and I think it makes all the difference in the world. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Toss in cleaned green beans and blanch for two to three minutes depending on the thickness of the beans. Transfer to an ice bath to stop the cooking and retain the bean’s bright green color. Drain the dry on paper towels. At this point the beans are ready to cook however you like, even served cold in a salad. You can also freeze them in a plastic bag for three to six months.
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Both cantaloupe and honeydew, when truly ripe, are so juicy and delectable that they taste great on their own. But when sliced into wedges and wrapped with a slice of prosciutto or serrano ham, the balance of sweet and salty is divine. Great as a snack or appetizer. Then there’s grilled cantaloupe, which is a great way to end a meal of grilled meats or veggies. Once your coals are ashen gray, place wedges on the grill and leave them there long enough to get some good grill marks, then flip to finish cooking. (Watch them carefully, as their natural sugars can burn quickly.) Transfer wedges to a platter and drizzle with a sauce of honey and melted butter. Serve as is or top with fresh mint or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
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The classic grilled street corn dish from Mexico — Elotes — is delicious, but a deconstructed version known as esquites is every bit as good, less messy to eat, and you don’t have to fire up the grill in the heat! This is one of my favorite sides. Slice kernels off the cob from 3 or four ears of corn. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a non-stick skillet over high heat. Add corn and cook until it begins to lightly char, flipping or stirring every two minutes or so for a total of approximately ten minutes. Transfer to a bowl and add the following in no particular order: 2 ounces feta or Cotija cheese, finely crumbled 1/2 cup finely sliced scallions, green parts only 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and stemmed, finely chopped 1 to 2 medium cloves minced garlic 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice from 1 lime Chile powder or hot chile flakes, to taste Salt to taste Mix well and serve warm or at room temperature.
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This is a tough one. Tzatziki, the classic Greek condiment, is awesome. So is the dish my mom used to make with sour cream, vinegar, and dill. But on the lighter side, this Japanese preparation called sunomono is hard to beat. Using one or two English or Persian cukes, slice ¼” thick on a diagonal (looks better and increases surface area). Add to a bowl. Whisk together 3 tablespoons each soy sauce and rice wine vinegar, one teaspoon each sugar and toasted sesame oil and one clove finely minced garlic. Add to cukes, mix well and set aside for up to 30 minutes for flavors to meld. Top with chopped roasted peanuts, fresh cilantro leaves, and togarashi (Japanese pepper blend) or chili flakes to taste.
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I like fried okra as much as the next person, but I’ve never been a fan of the slimy, boiled version (sorry, mom). I actually like it best when it’s either grilled or roasted. Just drizzle a bit of olive oil over whole okra pods and hit with salt and pepper (and garlic powder if you like). Roast at 425 degrees for about 12 to 15 minutes, or cook on the grill over hot coals, turning occasionally until lightly charred.
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There are dozens of ways to use fresh peppers, but the best way to bring out their flavor is to char them first, then peel their blackened skin. (Yes, you can buy roasted peppers in a jar, but they’re pricey and their vinegary flavor pales in comparison to homemade.) You can char peppers (I prefer red, yellow, and orange bell peppers, but I char poblanos and jalapenos as well for salsa verde) on the flame of a gas stove, turning occasionally until the entire surface is blackened. But I use the broiler most of the time, especially when making a large batch. Cut peppers into three or four sections lengthwise, and remove the seeds. Add to a bowl, drizzle with olive to coat, and lightly season with salt. Mix well, then put pepper sections on a foil-lined sheet pan, skin side up. Broil for several minutes, watching them carefully, until skin blackens. Flip over and continue to broil for just a few minutes to further soften the flesh. Remove from the oven and place in a bowl, then cover with plastic wrap for a half hour to soften the skins and make peeling easier. Peel with your bare hands or use a paper towel to minimize the messiness (but do not rinse under running water!), then slice sections into whatever size you want or leave whole. Before using or refrigerating, pour the insanely delicious oil from the sheet pan onto the peppers. Serve as is, on a sandwich or pizza, in a salad — so many possibilities.
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Here’s the most labor intensive recipe of the lot, but it’s quite simple and totally worth the effort. It’s my riff on the classic Italian Insalata Caprese, but I gild the lily by adding fried eggplant. Peel a globe eggplant such as Black Beauty and slice into half-inch rounds. Season with salt and pepper, then coat with flour, dip into beaten egg, and finally coat with panko. Heat olive oil to 375 degrees, then fry the eggplant slides on both sides until beautifully browned and cooked through. Drain on paper towels. Cut a Beefeater-style tomato into half-inch slices, then season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Top each eggplant slice with a tomato slice, then top the tomato with a slice of fresh mozzarella cheese. Whisk up a vinaigrette of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, a pinch of salt and pepper, and 10 or 12 basil leaves cut into ribbons. Pour over and around the stacked dish and top with fresh, whole basil leaves. So good!
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I prefer yellow squash to zucchini, although I eat plenty of both. And as a tribute to my youngest grandchild, Enza (who loves my cooking), I include both in a dish she adores — squash fritters. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate one medium yellow squash and one zucchini. Place on a few layers of paper towels and squeeze out as much liquid as you can, or add to a colander and use the back of a spoon to accomplish the same thing. Place squash in a bowl. Add about a ¼ cup each flour and panka, one beaten egg, and season with salt and pepper. (I usually add a good bit of shredded cheddar or mozzarella cheese to the mix, because Enza loves cheese!) The mix should hold together well rather than be runny — add more flour or panko if needed. Heat butter or olive oil in a skillet (Enza actually prefers ghee), scoop a ¼ cup of the mixture into the oil and press lightly with a spatula to flatten into a roughly ¼” disc. Fry on both sides until brown and crispy, much like hash browns. Serve as is, or top with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of fresh dill.
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My dad’s favorite way to eat tomatoes was to take thick slices, season them well with salt and pepper, and slap them between two pieces of white bread slathered with mayo. I must admit, it’s a pretty tasty sandwich, but I prefer to add bacon and lettuce (on sourdough bread). However, the classic Spanish tapa — pan con tomate — is a more refined version of dad’s bread and tomato concoction. Just drizzle slices of a good rustic bread with olive oil and toast under the broiler. When done and still hot, brush all over with a piece of garlic. Cut the top off a ripe tomato and carefully grate it on a box grater. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with a little more olive oil, and serve atop the bread. So simple, and so delicious.
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This salad screams summer, and it comes together in no time. Just cut watermelon into one-bite pieces (about 2 pounds for four to six servings) and place in a bowl. Add a handful of chopped, fresh mint and a handful of arugula (optional, but awesome). Whisk together two tablespoons each of honey, fresh-squeezed lime, olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Add to melon and stir well to combine. Just prior to serving, crumble a good feta cheese on top. And btw, some folks like to add chopped cucumbers, and I sometimes do as well. I’m also known to add sliced red onion.
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Coming Next Week — It’s Summer. Time to Focus on Fall.
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Gardening tends to slow down as the heat comes on strong, but thinking about what to plant this fall is a great indoor pastime. Next week I’ll focus on why fall gardening is the best gardening season of all.
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Tip of the Week Remember to harvest most summer veggies frequently to increase total production, especially eggplant, squash, and okra.
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